Question

How Sushi Went Global
THEODORE C. BESTOR
Summary This article by Theodore Bestor reveals the complex network of relationships that define a global economic system. Focusing on sushi, a traditional Japanese cuisine, Bestor shows how the international adoption of the culinary custom, and especially its centerpiece, raw bluefin tuna, has created a global system that involves Atlantic fishing and fish farming, national and environmental regulations, realignments of labor and capital, and shifting markets.
The article begins with a description of a bluefin auction at a fishing pier near Bath main. About 20 buyers evaluate and bid on three large bluefins, consulting buyers in the Tsukiui fish market in Japan by cell phone to establish prices. Once bought, the fish are packed in ice and flown to Japan. Japanese have a long-term affection for the bluefin, a fish that was originally caught only for sport in the United States. The Japanese had turned to international tuna suppliers in the past, when the world adopted a rule that restricted fishing boats from one nation from fishing within 200 miles of the coast of another country. Jumbo jets brought fresh New England bluefin into easy reach of Japan, and U.S. fishermen began to catch and export the large tuna. The 1980s were prosperous for Japan, which sustained the market for bluefin, but the economic bubble burst in the early "90s. Just in time, North Americans developed a taste for sushi, creating a strong market for the fish. As sushi became more and more popular in the United States, and later Europe, the expanded market increased fishing activity all across the Atlantic, and gave rise to fish farming, especially in Spanish and Croatian waters. But markets rely on supply and demand; in 1999 the Japanese managed to catch a year's supply of tuna in three days, reducing demand and prices. Prices also fell when environmental conditions in the Mediterranean resulted in reduced oxygen in the water. About 800 tuna in a Spanish fish trap suffocated and were caught and processed immediately, causing an oversupply that lowered tuna prices around the world.
Today, the market for tuna continues to thrive. The best bluefin still go to Japan where the market is still strongest, but the rest satisfy palates in many other parts of the world. Now fishermen often come in conflict with customers, governments, regulators, and environmentalists around the world as they catch or farm tuna. Because tuna fishing is a local industry, local economies based on fishing may be affected instantly by changes in world prices for the fish.
Bestor also points out that a global market does not necessarily mean cultural homogenization. Sushi, he argues, is considered a Japanese delicacy no matter where in the world it is eaten.
In "How Sushi Went Global," Bestor notes that bluefin tuna are now raised in Spanish waters near Gibraltar, where they are fed by hand.

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